There was a lot of noise when the 2020 Burgundies were released. Too ripe, said some. Too easy, said others - as if wines being enjoyable to drink were a character flaw. Two years on, the conversation has settled, and the truth is simpler: these are genuinely lovely wines, drinking beautifully right now, and the better ones will go on improving for another decade.
We have picked five to illustrate the vintage, at a spread of price points. None of them requires patience.
Domaine Michel Gros, Bourgogne Rouge 2020 - around £22
Michel Gros makes wine the way Burgundy used to be made: cleanly, carefully, without fuss. This village-level Pinot Noir opens with ripe cherry and a faint suggestion of violets. On the palate it is soft, round, and approachable - exactly what you want from a Tuesday bottle.
Maison Louis Jadot, Gevrey-Chambertin 2020 - around £45
Gevrey at this price is always worth attention when the vintage cooperates, and 2020 cooperated. Dark fruit, a earthy undertone, and a long finish with real grip. It could go another five years easily, but there is no shame in opening it now with a good piece of beef.
Domaine Ramonet, Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc 2020 - around £75
Ramonet is one of the great names in white Burgundy, and the 2020 Chassagne shows why. Stone fruit, hazelnut, and a mineral edge that lingers. Open it with roast chicken and feel pleased with yourself.
Vincent Girardin, Meursault Vieilles Vignes 2020 - around £55
Old vines in a ripe year produce something concentrated and almost creamy in texture. This is a fuller style of Meursault - buttery, yes, but with enough grip to hold interest across a meal.
Domaine Drouhin-Laroze, Chambolle-Musigny 2020 - around £60
Chambolle at its best produces Burgundy most silky and perfumed reds. If you are introducing someone to red Burgundy for the first time, this is the bottle to open.
A word on the vintage
2020 was warm and dry. Buy them now, drink them across the next few years, and enjoy the straightforward pleasure of a vintage that delivered without complication.